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When curating a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The honour has left the owners totally shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” states the proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their humble shop securing such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic honour.